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Feminismo na moda: como esse movimento influenciou as passarelas

Feminismo na moda: como esse movimento influenciou as passarelas

Saiba como o feminismo aparece nas marcas e nas passarelas

O feminismo é um movimento social e político que tem como objetivo conquistar o acesso a direitos iguais entre homens e mulheres e que existe desde o século XIX. A moda, como sempre, reflete as situações sociais, políticas e culturais que vivemos, sendo assim, ela está refletindo o feminismo também!

As tendências para a moda outono-inverno 2017-18 caracterizam uma mulher forte, decisiva, e que assume traços masculinos, sem esquecer a própria feminilidade. Os estilistas jogam muito com os contrastes. Passado e futuro se encontram em uma mulher que não esquece as próprias raízes, mas às interpreta conforme o tempo que vive.

Essa tendência personifica mulheres fortes, que tem uma carreira, com as calças e tailleur, e que querem se impor na sociedade para dar vida um novo conceito de feminilidade e de feminismo. Este é um grito de rebelião deliciosamente glam, para uma mulher com traços andróginos, que sabe o que quer e como obtê-lo.

Veja abaixo o que foi visto nas passarelas para o outono-inverno 2017-18:

Estilo britânico

Uma das trends é o estilo típico britânico, ou seja, um mix entre elementos de equitação e de caça. As passarelas variam entre a new wave da Mulberry, o pós punk de Vivienne Westwood e ao secretary dress code de Stella McCartney. A atmosfera londrina aparece nas coleções e o xadrez impõe uma feminilidade dandy forte e determinada. A estampa e tecidos xadrez jogam com as cores e cortes esvoaçantes.

Meias em destaque

As meias arrastão dão personalidade até ao look mais simples. Se inspire em como usar essa tendência com Jason Wu, Junya Watanabe, Daizy Shely. A primeira mais romântica e com detalhes de brilho, a segunda mais clássica e a terceira com referências punk.

Malharia acolhedora

Suave, macio, acolhedor, são características dadas as malhas. O inverno pede peças quentes e preferencialmente macias. Os designers usam a variante estilosa, e criam malhas e vestidos lindíssimos, criando um novo conceito de malharia. A versão azul é da Agnona, a cinza é do Michael Kors e o clássico nude do Lucio Vanotti.

Poás

Branco com azul, preto e vermelho. As propostas são sempre super femininas. Como as listras, os poás são uma daquelas estampas que sempre voltam, ou talvez não nunca se vão completamente. Nas coleções para o outono-inverno 2017-18, se encontram na versão maxi de Jacquemus, pequenas e compactas no look de Loewe e no estilo anos 60 de Marni.

Camisa over

Longuíssima e média, o importante é ser maxi. Essa tendência foi vista nas passarelas de Céline, Fendi e  Victoria Beckham.

Red touch

O vermelho é seguramente a cor da temporada do inverno 2017-18. Você pode usá-lo só como um detalhe nesta nuance ou pode apostar no total look. Vimos essa trend em Londres na coleção de Christopher Kane, em Milão na Max Mara e em Paris na DROMe. De dia ou de noite, o vermelho domina as passarelas. Não em todos os tons, mas um vermelho decidido, concentrado, coral, da cor do pôr do sol dos cinzentos dias de inverno.

Pelúcia

A maciez está sendo super valorizada nessa temporada. A marca Dolce & Gabbana trouxe em sua passarela coletes peludos com capuz e orelhas de bichinhos, e completam o look com luvas com garras, bolsas e chinelos de pelúcia. Em Marni, o look também é peludo, com tufos de pêlo que saem das botas e dos chapéus de verniz, que viram estolas. A pelúcia aparece também nas passarelas da Miu Miu e Prada.

Capa

As capas também voltaram! Sobretudo sem mangas ou até no estilo poncho. As variantes são muitas. Há o estilo amazona da Hermés, o estilo teatral de Alberta Ferretti e a sobriedade da Dior.

PVC

Ao invés do usual impermeável, o casaco dessa temporada é em pvc transparente. Para usar como peça complementar sobre uma outra jaqueta ou como peça forte do look, ele é estiloso e útil nos dias de chuva. Quem propõe o pvc são a Miu Miu, Emilio Pucci, com linhas coloridas, e Calvin Klein, que dá uma nova vida ao sobretudo.

Vibrações artísticas

Há também vibrações artísticas nas passarelas para o outono-inverno 2017-18. Do Valentino, as inspirações vêm do mundo do design, em particular do grupo Memphis. A estilista Nina Ricci propõe ilustrações de rostos e silhuetas femininas, sob a forma de um verdadeiro retrato. Já no Empório Armani, olhos, bocas e mãos aparecem em tops e jaquetas como elementos decorativos em estilo surrealista. Por fim, a Prada apresenta essa trend, através de blusas e saias de seda estampadas com retratos de divas do passado.

Sport

A última trend são os tecidos técnicos nas passarelas. Além de práticos, os tecidos são anti transpirantes, pois vem mundo do esporte. A Sportmax aposta na jaqueta leve, a Lacoste no vestido e Paco Rabanne no conjuntinho futurista.

Sobre o Autor

Maria Gabriela

Formada em Design de Produto na PUC no Rio de Janeiro, design de Moda no Instituto Marangoni, Fashion Buyer no Istituto Europeo di Design e Mestrado em Tecidos e Matérias na Nuova Accademia di Belle Arte, os três em Milão – é movida por sua vontade de conhecer, pesquisar e procurar por aí o que há de mais legal, novo e instigante. Radicada em Milão desde 2006, colecionou adoráveis experiências e viagens inesquecíveis proporcionados pelo seu amor a Moda que ampliaram o seu repertório de vivências. Com experiência em diferentes setores da moda, hoje escreve artigos, é consultora e executa projetos especiais para o Mercado da Moda.

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